How do you spot a fake graded card? Start by entering the certification number on the grader's own website and confirming the card, grade and images match the slab in front of you. Then inspect the...
How do you spot a fake graded card? Start by entering the certification number on the grader's own website and confirming the card, grade and images match the slab in front of you. Then inspect the label, the hologram, the case seam and the card itself. A matching cert alone isn't proof: the most common trick is a genuine cert number printed on a fake slab or attached to the wrong card.
A slab is meant to end the authenticity question. A grading company has examined the card, assigned a grade and sealed it in tamper-evident plastic. That trust is exactly what counterfeiters sell. As graded Pokémon, One Piece and sports cards have climbed in value, so has the quality of fake holders, copied labels and reused cert numbers. Here's how to inspect a slab properly, whoever you're buying from. Our rule: the cert lookup tells you a slab exists; only the slab in your hand tells you whether this is that slab.
Every major grader runs a free certification lookup:
Then read the result like an authenticator, not a box-ticker:
| Lookup result | What it means |
|---|---|
| No record | Walk away. The cert doesn't exist. |
| Record is a different card | A reused or copied cert number. This is the most common trick. |
| Right card, different grade | A swapped or altered label. |
| Right card and grade, with images | Compare centring, print lines and any marks with the card in hand. A different copy of the same card can wear someone else's cert. |
Ask for the cert number before you pay. A seller who won't share it, or offers it "on request" only after payment, has answered the question for you.
A genuine slab can still hold a fake card if it's been opened and resealed. Check that the visible condition matches the grade (a crease under a Gem Mint label is a contradiction), and compare the print pattern, holo pattern and edge colour with a known genuine copy of the same card. If grades and pop counts are new to you, our guides to the PSA grading scale and the PSA population report cover what each number tells you.
Everything above takes a trained eye, good light and a known genuine slab to compare against. Most collectors don't have all three to hand. On PUSHAS, every graded card is authenticated by hand by a PUSHAS authenticator before it ships, sellers are vetted before they can list, and every order is covered by our Authenticity & Legitimacy Guarantee: if an item is confirmed not authentic, you receive a full refund, including shipping.
Two house rules protect every buyer. Slabs can be returned under our standard returns policy only if they come back sealed, intact and unopened, which protects the next buyer from a slab that has been tampered with. And the grade belongs to the grader, so a disagreement with the grade isn't grounds for a return.
Browse graded cards on PUSHAS and shop with confidence, or start with how PSA, BGS and CGC differ.
Look up the cert number at psacard.com/cert and confirm the card, grade and images match. Then check that the hologram shifts when tilted, the label print is sharp, the case seam is even all the way around and the card fits snugly in its well.
Yes. Copying a genuine cert number onto a fake slab, or onto a different card, is the most common trick. That's why the cert lookup is a first step, not the whole check.
Use the grader's own lookup: Beckett's grading verification tool for BGS, including subgrades, and the certification lookup on cgccards.com for CGC. Then inspect the label, case and card the same way you would a PSA slab.
Yes, and it's one way fake or altered cards end up in genuine holders. Uneven seams, glue lines or gaps around the edge are the warning signs.
Yes. Every graded card on PUSHAS is authenticated by hand before it ships and covered by the PUSHAS Authenticity & Legitimacy Guarantee.

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